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Solid State Upgrade For 2011 Mac Book Pro

MacBook Pro Hard Drive Upgrade admin If you are concerned with an old, slow or failing hard drive or a defective hard drive issue, Creative IT offers top quality MacBook Pro hard drive upgrade and replacement services within quick turnaround time. If you have an old MacBook Pro with one foot in the grave, the single best thing you can do to breathe new life into it is replace its traditional spinning hard drive with a solid-state drive. 1-16 of 93 results for 'solid state drive macbook pro 2011'. 240GB 6G SSD Flash Internal Drive Upgrade For MacBook Air 2010 - 2011.

Macbook

IMac: Up through 2017 (current) models Mac mini: Up through late 2014 (current) models. Mac Pro: Up through late 2013 (current) models MacBook: Up through mid-2010 models MacBook Air: Up through 2017 (current) models MacBook Pro: Up through mid-2015 models For Non-Upgradable Macs, Consider External SSDs Ideally, you’ll install the SSD inside your Mac, squeezing maximum performance out of its chips without needing to power an external device. But if your Mac can’t be internally upgraded, or you’re squeamish about opening up your computer, you can buy an external SSD and connect it to a USB 3 or Thunderbolt port.

• Click on Options and select GUID Partition Table in the next window. • Click on the First Aid tab, followed by Verify Disk Permissions. • Click Verify Disk, followed by Repair Disk. • Shutdown your MacBook and restart it, holding the Option key as you do.

You'll see that a SATA ribbon is attached to one end. Carefully wiggle the connector -- not the ribbon itself -- to disconnect it.

I have an Early 2011 17' 2.2 GHz MacBook Pro with 16 GB Ram running latest version of Yosemite. Especially since upgrading to Yosemite a few months ago, this thing is 'dog-slow'. Takes at least 3-4 minutes to restart and Adobe CC Apps take forever to launch. I have run the latest version of DiskWarrior and CleanMyMac3, but no help with speed. All I can think of at this point to help may be an SSD drive? (1) Your thoughts? (2) If so, which SSD.

The amount of RAM a system has will reduce its reliance of the drives storage but not remove it. 8 GB is still lean for many apps but it all depends on what you are running and doing. As an example: Our system baseline is now 16 GB but our users are using some heavy CAD & Graphics apps. Thanks for the answers and all the comments. Having come from an IT background I'm familiar with fragmentation, paging, and I/O issues.

Are you still using a mid-2012 MacBook Pro? Yep, that’s my model. I love my MacBook, but well, when it’s starting to show its age, it’s not that speedy anymore. Fortunately, there is a quick way to increase the performance of an old Mac — upgrading the internal hard drive to SSD (solid state drive).

If you like good tools, I strongly recommend. Not the best website out there, but tools are certainly some the best. If you happened to strip the screws on your Mac, or damaged any other part, check out for replacements. Make sure you shutdown your computer before you work on it. If you're not using anti-static mat, lay it on some soft surface 'upside down' or 'belly up', whichever you like better.

Type: 2.5' Serial ATA Condition: New Width: 2.8 in Depth: 3.9 in Height: 0.4 in.

When will microsoft office 11 for mac no longer be supported?. On October 10, 2017, mainstream support will no longer be available to users who are running Office for Mac 2011. Office for Mac 2011 is no longer an option for download through the Office 365 portal. With the release of macOS 10.14 Mojave, Office 365 for Mac and Office 2019 for Mac will support macOS 10.14, 10.13, and 10.12. Moving forward, as new major versions of macOS are made generally available, Microsoft will drop support for the oldest version and support the newest and previous two versions of macOS.

PRE-2011 models can utilize a 6G drive in the optical bay, but will do so at a reduced 3G (3Gb/s) speed. So if you just need one SSD and you put it in where the HDD is, you're OK. I wrote this recently in People have reported issues with the NVidia MCP79 SATA chips in this MBP and certain SSD's. To find out if the computer has this chip, press the Apple Logo in the left top corner, press 'About This Mac', press 'System Report', select 'SATA' from the left dock under the Hardware heading. The name of the SATA chip should appear in the top middle portion of the window. If the MBP has the NVidia chip, you'll have to select an SSD that does not have problems with this chip. This involves some research on the web.

Any thoughts? Thanks very much. @Kris - Your answer sadly doesn't address the root failure. Yes, a drive that is fragmented and as well, very full will bog down.

We're using the enclosure that came bundled with our Kingston HyperX SSD. After connecting the new SSD to your MacBook Pro via USB, run Disk Utility (built into OS X).

But, the big clue here is the battery getting hot. This is the reaction of heavy CPU & Drive interaction not slow access.

With all due respect, I strongly disagree with your comment about NOT using loctite. In most cases it's not a good idea, but with these unibody macs -- absolutely necessary.

The file cloning process should begin. Having all checkmarks and green bars shows a successful clone operation.

Reliability While judging a book by its cover is generally frowned upon, when it comes to flash storage, it's perfectly acceptable to judge performance and reliability from the brand name alone. Well-known companies usually have good reputations for reliability and quality control of their products, and you'll want that name-brand security when it comes to something as critical to daily functions. The Best SSD for MacBook Pro: Our Picks Kindly note that the SSD drives we recommend below are rated based on our own opinions and preferences. They are by no means made in this order.

And also note that this tip covers only one method – my preferred method – for getting your data to your SSD. Apple Footer This site contains user submitted content, comments and opinions and is for informational purposes only. Apple may provide or recommend responses as a possible solution based on the information provided; every potential issue may involve several factors not detailed in the conversations captured in an electronic forum and Apple can therefore provide no guarantee as to the efficacy of any proposed solutions on the community forums. Apple disclaims any and all liability for the acts, omissions and conduct of any third parties in connection with or related to your use of the site. All postings and use of the content on this site are subject to the.

So, I took a road trip with my laptop and next time I was using my laptop I noticed it was freezing up and later noticed that some screenshots I took were messed up and a lot of images movies apps and documents were all corrupt. So I'm guessing the hard drive got scratched somehow. After cleaning things best I could it has been running fine for a couple weeks but now I'm hearing clicking and other strange sounds near where the hard drive is. So anyway to my question about storage. I have been reading guides on upgrading to an SSD but they are all kinda confusing/vague. So I'm looking at 1) Will I just be able to screw that hard drive into the bracket that the current hard drive is in?

2010 Macbook Pro Ssd Upgrade

Spreadsheet for mac. Not all SSDs are equivalent in reliability and performance, but ones from top-tier chip companies are pretty incredible. Which Mac Models Can Be Internally Upgraded?

If Apple releases the model with a specific amount of memory as max, that's all they sell for it even though the hardware may be capable of more. In your case, it can support 16 GB. If you're at 4 GB now, you may as well go to 16. The cost just isn't that much more than going to 8. If you already have 8, you may not see that much of a performance difference. It all depends on how many programs you have open at once and what you're doing.

Macbook Pro 2011 Ssd Upgrade

I suspect you're really having a HD issue here. Your symptoms are classic of a failed cable and drive. This series has a known issue with the HD SATA cable breaking down.

A USB 3.0 drive enclosure or cable will cost a bit more, but the speed is worth it. Try the or the. * Bonus: If you use the enclosure method, put your old hard drive inside it and use it as a backup drive or for extra portable storage. Get Your Cloning Software You can mess around with Apple’s Time Machine, but I personally prefer the simple, direct ease of. Carbon Copy Cloner shines when you buy it outright and is excellent for backups, but you can create a fully bootable copy of your hard drive with the trial version.

(Note: while some portions of this user tip can be used when installing a new hard drive in your MacBook Pro, it is intended only for those upgrading to a SSD.) There are, with most MacBook Pros (exclusive of the Retina display models) only two modifications that you can make without voiding your Apple warranty or AppleCare extended warranty – upgrading the RAM and upgrading the drive in the hard drive bay. If you’ve already upgraded your RAM and simply want more speed, you may want to consider upgrading your old hard drive with a SSD (Solid State Drive). Many people come to the MacBook Pro forum asking about SSD upgrades, so this user tip is applicable to those, primarily, who have already made the decision to upgrade. Note that I only recommend using a SSD in 2009 and later MacBook Pros with a 3.0Gbps to 6.0Gbps interface speed – and I recommend buying a 6.0Gbps SSD regardless of the fact that models with a SATA II interface won’t be able to use the full-negotiated speed of 6.0Gbps. Because you may want to upgrade your Mac sometime in the future although you'd likely be upgrading to a Retina model these days.

Note: I did the SSD upgrade on my mid-2012 MacBook Pro, so this guide is probably most useful to those of you who are using the same model with me. However, I assume it would also apply to older MacBook models like 2011 and 2010 as long as your machine has a standard 2.5-inch SATA drive. Disclaimer: I’m not a computer expert but I did an extensive research on the topic about the best SSD for MacBook Pro and actually upgraded it by myself (DIY). It’s worth pointing out that MacBook Pros from 2013, 2014, and 2015 have very few SSD upgrade options; And newer MacBook Pro 2016 and 2017 models are not upgradable at all. Also, this post was initially published two years ago, I’ve thus come back to revamp the content making sure the information in the article is accurate as the SSD market changes fast. Table of Contents • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Quick Summary Don’t have time to go too deep into the technical field? I understand.

Solid State Upgrade For 2011 Macbook Pro Mid 2010

Find an SSD Drive You can spend hours or days agonizing over which SSD drive is slightly faster than another, but it’s best to choose the biggest Crucial or Samsung SSD you can afford and get on with your life. Personally, I believe the offers the best bang for your buck, but the is slightly faster and offers a few more gigabytes of storage on each drive — buy according to your budget. The Crucial BX200 offers great speed and value for an SSD drive. Get a Toolkit You’re going to need a toolkit that has tiny screwdrivers to handle some very small screws, most notably Phillips (#00) and Torx T6. You can likely get away with a cheap kit, but the risk is hitting a stubborn screw and stripping out a cheap screwdriver, leaving your upgrade on pause until you can get another screwdriver.